2008 Saturn Vue

The new generation's body goes crossover curvy, shedding its straight-laced body panels. It looks more car than truck, and that's a welcome change.

The new Vue's exterior is more innocuous than decisive. It looks nice, but it looks like everything else. If you want something that stands out, go elsewhere. That's not a negative comment, nice and inoffensive seems to be exactly what many consumers want. Everything on the exterior is thought out and precise. Things like the dual chrome-tipped exhaust pipes, the front fender moldings with a turn indicator mounted in it, and the roof rack are nice touches.

The fold flat split second row and front passenger seat allow for a number of ways to carry cargo.

2008 Saturn Vue

# Type:
A front-wheel drive, five-passenger crossover. All-wheel drive and mild hybrid models are available.

# Models:
XE, XR, Red Line and Green Line

# Retail price:
$21,355 - $32,000

# Engines
2.4-liter I-4, 164 hp, 160-lb-ft torque
3.5-liter V-6, 222-hp, 219-lb-ft torque
3.6-liter V-6, 250-hp, 243-lb-ft torque

# Transmission:
four- or six-speed automatic, sequential shifting available

# EPA mileage
2.4-liter: XE, FWD: 19 mpg city / 26 mpg highway
3.5-liter: XE, AWD: 15/22
3.6-liter: XR FWD: 16/23, XR FWD w/ tap shifting: 16/24, XR AWD: 16/22

Performance: Good.
Good power with the V-6. Well mannered on the road, in parking lots and through tight turns.

Exterior: Good.
Stylish design stays true to its German heritage.

Interior: Excellent.
Well-laid out. Feels comfortable and uses cubbies, bins and drawers in good ways. Feels more luxurious than price.

Safety: Excellent.
Six standard airbags include side curtain for both rows. Anti lock brakes and electronic stability control standard. Collapsible pedals and active front row head restraints.

Pros:
Versatile crossover with good performance and excellent interior.

Cons:
Exterior design does not stand out in crowded crossover segment.

The Vue's instrument panel and dash is thoughtfully laid out and well built.

2007 Toyota Tundra

The 2007 Toyota Tundra packs plenty to scare the bejesus out of the American pickup makers: The second-generation Tundra is the best truck Toyota Motor Corp. has ever built.

It's big, it's powerful, and it promises more potency than a Viagra commercial: Bigger brakes, bigger gears and a bigger body must mean it's a bigger truck.

Type: Full size pickup truck

Models: 31 model configurations

Retail price: $22,935 to $42,495

Engines
# 4-liter V-6, 236-hp, 266-lb-ft
# 4.7-liter V-8, 271-hp, 313-lb-ft
# 5.7-liter V-8, 381-hp, 401-lb-ft

Transmission: Five-speed or six-speed automatic

EPA mileage
# 4-liter: (4x2)17 mpg city / 20 mpg highway
# 4.7-liter: (4x2 and 4x4) 15 mpg / 18 mpg
# 5.7-liter: (4x2) 16 mpg / 20 mpg
(4x4) 14 mpg / 18 mpg

Performance : Excellent:
When equipped with the 5.7-liter engine, the Tundra is powerful. It handles very well for such a large truck.
Exterior: Good :
Big and menacing, but lacks originality.

Interior: Average:
Very functional with lots of useful storage but feels cold and clinical.

Safety: Excellent:
A host of standard safety features include front and side curtain airbags, anti-lock brakes, stability and traction control.

Potential causes Dieseling

An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter then gradually stop rather than continue running as if the engine was not switched off at all — the latter would usually indicate an electrical fault.


Potential causes

This condition can occur for a multitude of reasons:

* Built-up carbon in the ignition chamber can glow red after the engine is off, providing a mechanism for sparking unburnt fuel. Such a thing can happen when the engine runs very rich, depositing unspent fuel and particles on the pistons and valves. Similarly, non-smooth metal regions within the piston chamber can cause this same problem, since they can glow red. It has also been suggested that an improperly rated sparkplug can retain heat and cause the same problem.

* A carburetor that does not close entirely can contribute to running once the engine is off, since the extra fuel and oxygen mixture can combust easily in the warm piston chamber. Similarly, hot vaporized oil gases from the engine crankcase can provide ample fuel for dieseling.

* Incorrect timing.

* An engine that runs too hot or too lean may produce an environment conducive to allowing unspent fuel to combust.

* An idle speed that is too fast can leave the engine with too much angular momentum upon shutdown, raising the chances that the engine can turnover and combust more fuel and lock itself into a cycle of continuous running.


Potential fixes

Items similar to carburetor cleaners and carbon cleaners have been suggested as partial remedies for attempting to clean the piston chambers and valves of engines that run too rich.

For those engines that have sharp metallic edges, it has been noted that poorly milled heads and blocks can contribute to this problem, so having the rough spots smoothed may help.

For those engines that run too hot or too lean, verify that all mechanisms in place to cool the engine properly function as they should. Replace the thermostat if necessary. Clean the radiator. Verify that all auxiliary fans engage at their proper temperatures, and ensure that the thermostatic sensors on belt driven fans engage as necessary.

In the case that there is too much angular momentum, lower the idle speed if possible.

2008 Audi TT coupe and convertible

The redesigned 2008 Audi TT coupe is longer, wider and faster.

2008 Audi TT coupe and convertible

Type:
A rear-wheel drive two-passenger convertible or 2+2 coupe.

Models:
Coupe (with 2+2 seating); Roadster (two-seater)

Retail price*:
$35,575 -- $50,000

Engines:
# 2-liter 4-cylinder turbo, 200 horsepower, 207-pound-feet torque;
# 3.2-liter V-6: 250-horsepower, 236-pound-feet torque

Transmission:
# 2-liter: six-speed automatic with sequential shifting.
# 3.2-liter: six-speed automatic with sequential shifting or six-speed manual.

EPA mileage

# 2-liter:
Coupe: 23 mpg / 31 mpg
Roadster:
22/29

# 3.2-liter (both types with automatic transmission):18/24

# 3.2-liter (both types with manual transmission): 17/24

Notes:
Expect a six-speed manual transmission to come with the 2-liter engine in the coming years
*Includes shipping


Performance:
Excellent. Engine is powerful for such a light vehicle. Optional sports tuned suspension package makes both vehicles a hoot to drive.

Exterior: Excellent.
Sleek lines and distinctive style maintain Audi's upscale character.

Interior: Excellent.
Luxury at your fingertips and flat bottom steering wheel makes it even feel different and special.

Safety: Excellent.
Front and side-curtain airbags as well as electronic stability control.

Pros:
It's comfortable and fun to drive; you'll never want to get to where you're going. The best deal is the coupe with the 2-liter engine.

Cons:
Cramped trunk space and steep price tag could keep the TT convertible from being a daily driver.

3.2 liter V-6 engine in the 2008 Audi TT produces 250 horsepower.

Whats a Petcock

Is a regulator consisting of a small cock or faucet or valve for letting out air or releasing compression or draining. Although petcocks are used in a wide variety of applications, the following passage will describe one of the most common applications of the petcock which is the control of gasoline on a motorcycle engine.

Most motorcycles have a fuel petcock valve mounted on or nearby the gas tank to control the supply of gasoline. The petcock typically has three positions: ON, OFF, and RESERVE. The reserve position accesses the bottom portion of the gas tank. The reserve position functionality of the petcock is especially useful on motorcycles because they often don't possess a fuel gauge.

When operating a motorcycle the fuel management process often proceeds as follows: Especially when regarding vintage motorcycles the petcock is set to the off position when the motorcycle is not being operated. This is to eliminate fuel overflow and leakage via the carburetor(s). Before starting the engine the petcock is turned to the ON position in order to provide gasoline to the fuel delivery system.

While operating the engine there will reach a point at which fuel consumption causes the level of gasoline in the gas tank to fall below that which can be accessed by the petcock in the ON position. At that time continued operation of the engine can be maintained. This operation is achieved by accessing the remaining fuel in the gas tank via rotating the valve in the petcock to the RESERVE position.

BMW xDrive

BMW xDrive is BMW's four-wheel drive system that powers the X3, X5 and 2006 and later xd and xi 3 Series and 5 Series models.

Instead of a 60-40 (rear-front) power split (which all millennium four-wheel drive BMW's exhibit — 325xi, 330xi, early X5) with power being cut to wheels which lost traction through DSC (Dynamic Stability Control), xDrive allows power to be split between the front and rear axles through use of a multiplate clutch located between the gearbox and the Cardian shaft. This setup allows xDrive vehicles to split power in virtually any way it pleases. If the car felt like it was in a threatening situation (note not an unstable one), xDrive would react immediately, often before the driver ever knew of its intervention, to alleviate traction and control of the vehicle.

xDrive is also closely knit with DSC. In the case that wheelspin still occurs while xDrive is or has been shifting power, DSC can brake independent wheels to regain traction. xDrive also helps in cornering. When the vehicle senses that it was about to understeer or oversteer the vehicle can independently cut traction to either of the front wheels or rear wheels to help regain stability and keep the driver on the road.

xDrive was one of the first technologies used to intervene before the driver was aware that the car was becoming or would become unstable. Its intervention is transparent to the driver.

Unusual four-wheel drive systems

Prompted by a perceived need for a simple, inexpensive all-terrain vehicle for oil exploration in North Africa, the French motor manufacturer Citroën developed the 2CV Sahara. Unlike other 4x4 vehicles which use a conventional transfer case to drive the front and rear axle, the Sahara had two engines, each independently driving a separate axle, with the rear engine facing backwards. The two throttles, clutches and gearchange mechanisms could be linked, so both 12 bhp 425 cc engines could run together, or they could be split and the car driven solely by either engine. Combined with twin fuel tanks and twin batteries (which could be set up to run either or both engines), the redundancy of two separate drive trains meant that they could make it back to civilization even after major mechanical failures. Only around 700 of these cars were built, and only 27 are known to exist today. Enthusiasts have built their own "new" Saharas, by rebuilding a 2CV and fitting the modified engine, gearbox and axle onto a new, strengthened chassis.

BMC experimented with a twin-engined Mini Moke in the mid-1960s, but never put it into production.

Suzuki Motors introduced the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Edition in 1996. Though actual numbers were never released, this twin-engined vehicle is believed to weigh around 1760 pounds and produce nearly 1000bhp. The engine is a twin-turbo charged 2.0L V6 mated to a sequential 6-speed manual transmission.

Nissan Motors has developed a system called E4WD wherein the rear wheels in a car that is normally front-wheel drive are driven by electric motors. This system was introduced in some variants of the Nissan Cube and Tiida.

Most recently, DaimlerChrysler's Jeep Division debuted the twin engine, 670 hp Jeep Hurricane concept at the 2005 North American International Auto Show in Detroit. This vehicle has a unique "crab crawl" capability, which allows it to rotate in 360 degrees in place. It also has dual Hemi V8s.

G60

The G60 is a supercharged straight-4 petrol engine manufactured by Volkswagen in the early 1990s. The engine displaced 1.8 L (1781 cc), had 8 valves (two per cylinder) and produced 160 PS (118 kW/158 hp). Although it was based on an existing engine, it underwent so many modifications it is usually regarded as a separate powerplant from others VW produced. It was named after the intricate "G-Lader" supercharger that it was mated to, this supercharger having a 60 mm wide displacer - hence the "G60" moniker.

The engine debuted in 1988 in the Corrado, which took 8.3 seconds to reach 100 km/h and had a maximum speed of 225 km/h (140 mph). In 1989 it was adapted for the Passat and the VW Golf Mk.II, in which it was capable of propelling the car to 100 km/h (62 mph) in 7.8 seconds, with a maximum speed of 216 km/h (134 mph). In the United States the engine was used only in the Corrado, and was dropped in 1992 in favor of the newer, more powerful VR6.

A low-production, all-wheel drive variant of the Golf G60 called the Golf Rallye was also powered by the 8-valve G60, but the engine was reduced to 1763 cc for sports homologation purposes. Power remained 160 PS. A 16-valve G60 engine was used in the ultra-rare Golf Limited, of which only 71 were produced, all with four-wheel drive. Power was raised to 210 PS (154 kW/207 hp), and the car could now reach 100 km/h in 6.4 seconds, reaching a maximum speed of 247 km/h (153 mph).

The G60 engine, like any supercharged and turbocharged engine, was sensitive to excessive air temperature, so performance very much depended on the weather conditions. Some models, like the Corrado or even some variants of the Golf Rallye, had a bigger, better-placed intercooler, resulting in increased performance over the standard intercooler and location.

Though there is no recommendation from Volkswagen, the compressor should be serviced every 100,000 km with an expensive repair likely.

A smaller version of the G60, called the G40, was used in the Polo Coupé supermini. The maximum power of this nervous little machine was 113 PS (83 kW/111 hp), propelling the car to 196 km/h (122 mph).

Centrifugal type supercharger

The centrifugal-type supercharger is an engine-driven compressor used to increase the power output of an internal-combustion engine by increasing the amount of available oxygen by compressing air that is entering the engine. This type of supercharger is practically identical in operation to a turbocharger, with the exception that instead of exhaust gases driving the compressor via a turbine, the compressor is driven from the crankshaft via a belt-, gear- or chain-drive.

Like any centrifugal pump, the boost provided by the centrifugal supercharger increases with the square of the speed, measured in RPM. This means that the centrifugal design provides little boost at low engine speeds, in some cases allowing air to pass back through the supercharger, such as during deceleration. On the other hand, the design is also the most efficient, besting designs like the Roots type supercharger and twin-screw type supercharger, which have the advantage of producing boost at any RPM.

Many World War II piston aircraft engines such as the Rolls-Royce Merlin and the Daimler-Benz DB 601 utilized single-speed or multi-speed centrifugal superchargers. Because high-performance aircraft engines were typically mated to constant-speed propellers and did not see a great variation in engine speeds, the poor low-rpm performance of centrifugal superchargers was not an issue. Turbo-supercharged engines, like some models of the Allison V-1710, combined a centrifugal supercharger with a turbocharger for better performance across a broad range of altitudes, using the engine-driven portion to provide a constant boost for extra power, while the turbocharger was used primarily to offset the effects of lowered outside air pressure as the aircraft climbed. Superchargers have since fallen from use in the aviation world, replaced by turbochargers of ever-improving quality.

Due to its design and lack of low-RPM boost it is often employed on near-standard compression engines. This means that it can facilitate airflow at higher engine RPMs, when most motors tend to have poor volumetric efficiency, without substantially increasing cylinder pressures at low- to mid-RPM operation, causing knock. This principle makes this type of supercharger ideally fit for a "bolt-on" type power adder, with no modification of the pistons and/or compression ratio necessary. Since gasoline must mix with air in a fairly narrow ratio to achieve combustion, the fact that centrifugals do not add much air at low and mid-range RPM's means fuel mileage is near-stock in the cruise RPM range. They appear to be most popular with cars that have a sufficiently large enough engine to provide adequate acceleration from a standing start without boost, while at the same time avoiding wheelspin. Then, the engine encounters breathing limitations in the mid-RPM range, often because it may only use two valves per cylinder. Centrifugals are also popular in places where the power-adder must be removed for frequent government engine inspections, as the exhaust system is unaffected (as it would be with a turbocharger).

However, detractors of the centrifugal-type supercharger (at least in street-driven automobile applications) note that it combines what some feel are the worst qualities of a turbocharger and a supercharger, since it doesn't develop appreciable boost at low RPM (Boost Threshold), but still uses up prodigious amounts of engine power to operate. Since it is crankshaft-driven and cannot benefit from a device like a wastegate on an exhaust-driven turbocharger to control its rotational speed, its boost threshold is always within a thousand or so RPM of redline. As such, the horsepower rating of the engine is greatly increased, but in a small part of the upper RPM range.

All supercharger types benefit from the use of an intercooler to reduce heat produced during compression.

Several popular makes of centrifugal type superchargers for automotive applications are: Paxton, Powerdyne, Procharger, and Vortech.

TVS SUPERCHARGER

Eaton’s new Twin Vortices Series (TVS) is a roots-type supercharger for a variety of engine applications that delivers more power and better fuel economy in a smaller package, for uncompromising, high-performance driving.

The TVS supercharger’s patented design features four-lobe rotors and high-flow inlet and outlet ports that greatly enhance thermal efficiency, deliver higher volumetric capacity, and enable higher operating speeds. The TVS supercharger is capable of running with a high thermal efficiency (up to 76 percent) across a very wide operating range.

The improvements incorporated into the TVS design allow for the use of a smaller supercharger, reducing the package size and weight of the system. The sizes range from 350cc to 2300cc per revolution, and cover engines from 0.6 liter up to large displacement V-engines. All TVS superchargers have a 2.4 pressure ratio capability and a thermal efficiency that exceeds 70 percent, which enables more compact packaging and greater output.

The twin four-lobe rotors feature 160-degree twists. The higher helix angle of the rotors coupled with a redesigned inlet and outlet ports, improves the TVS’s air-handling characteristics without increasing the overall size of the unit. The TVS improved noise and vibration characteristics eliminate additional noise-reduction treatments, complexity and system cost.

The TVS sets a new standard of boosting device performance and reaffirms Eaton’s leadership in the performance automotive market!

Roots type supercharger

The Roots type supercharger or Roots blower is a positive displacement type device which operates by pulling air through a pair of meshing lobes not unlike a set of stretched gears. Air is trapped in pockets surrounding the lobes and carried from the intake side to the exhaust. The supercharger is typically driven directly from the engine's crankshaft via a belt.

It is named for the brothers Philander and Francis Roots, who first patented the basic design in 1860 as an air pump for use in blast furnaces and other industrial applications. In 1900, Gottlieb Daimler included a Roots-style supercharger in a patented engine design, making the Roots-type supercharger the oldest of the various designs now available.

Out of the three basic supercharger types the Roots has historically been considered the least efficient. However, recent engineering developments by Eaton Corporation has resulted in a new Roots-type supercharger which yields a pump that is more efficient than all previous models. In addition, the Roots-type supercharger is simple and widely used and thus is invariably the most cost efficient. It is also more effective than alternative superchargers at developing compression at low engine rpms, making it a popular choice for passenger automobile applications. Peak torque can be achieved by about 2000 rpm.

All supercharger types benefit from the use of an intercooler to remove heat produced during compression. With a Roots-type supercharger, a thin heat exchanger is adapted to fit in-between the blower and the engine. Water is circulated through it to a second unit placed near the front of the vehicle where a fan and the ambient air-stream can dissipate the collected heat.

The Roots design is commonly used on two-stroke diesel engines, which require some form of forced induction as there is no intake stroke. In this application, the blower does not often provide significant compression and these engines are considered naturally aspirated; turbochargers are generally used when significant "boost" is needed. The Rootes Co. two-stroke diesel engine, used in Commer and Karrier vehicles, had a Roots-type blower but the two names are not connected.

The superchargers used on top fuel engines, funny cars, and other dragsters, as well as hot rods, are in fact derivatives of General Motors superchargers for their diesel engines, which were adapted for automotive use in the early days of the sport. The model name of these superchargers delineates their size; i.e. the once commonly used "6-71" and "4-71" blowers were designed for General Motors diesels having six cylinders of 71 cubic inches each, and four cylinders of 71 cubic inches each, respectively. Current competition dragsters use blowers of 14-71 design.

Checking Your Car Engine

The engine is what makes your car run. That is to say it is the most essential part of your vehicle. Checking your car engine helps a lot in maintaining an excellent performing engine.

To check this very significant auto part, stop first the engine. Let the engine oil be poured down to the oil pan. Then, pull the engine oil dipstick. Checking your owner’s manual will guide you in looking for the engine oil dipstick. Using a clean rag, any cloth or tissue, wipe it off and then. Insert it again down into its right place.

Pull the oil dipstick again. Try to check the oil level. It should be at the part of the cylinder where there is the "FULL" mark. However, it is still ok if it is quite lower. Proceed now with the checking of the oil condition. If it is not black anymore, it means you need to change it. It is still ok if it is slightly black. Any other oil color would definitely mean an engine problem.

In topping up oil engine, augment the same type and brand as you already have. This will prevent inconveniences in your engine.

Again, check the oil level. Just make sure not to overfill it. Then, return the dipstick and close the oil filler cap.

In checking automatic transmission fluid, different cars follow different procedures, so it is better to consult the owner’s manual.

Pull the transmission dipstick. Using a clean rag, wipe it off. Then, insert it back in its place.

Pull it again and go check fluid level. It should be within COLD marks if the engine is cold. If the car is warmed up, the level should be at the "HOT" mark. There is nothing to worry about if it is a bit lower.

Fluid condition must also be checked. It should be clean and transparent and has no burnt smell.

In topping up transmission fluid, it is essential to use only the specified one. You can always consult your owner’s manual or ask an auto shop to assist you in doing this. You need to be very careful in topping up transmission fluid because incorrect transmission fluid can destroy the engine.

Augment a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe. For a few minutes, let the fluid to flow down. Then, recheck the fluid level. Make sure it does not overfill.

In your Acura car, Acura engine parts are the most essential auto part. Always check the engine to prevent break downs.

Honda FCX

Honda Motor Co. has finally unveiled its next-generation hydrogen fuel cell vehicle last Thursday with the announcement that it would begin producing a small number of vehicles that will be marketed in Japan and United States.

The new Honda FCX is made more sporty and sleeker as compared to the current version that has a top speed of 100 mph. It also has a longer range from 210 miles to 270 miles and of course a fuel cell power system that is 400 pounds lighter. Its auto parts such as air induction and others were also modified to function on hydrogen fuel.

The introduction of the FCX was right on timing since there is a growing concern for the greenhouse gas emissions not to mention the calls in Congress to dramatically raise fuel economy standards to minimize exhaust emissions.

Hydrogen vehicles provide lower net carbon dioxide emissions. Plus it can help end US dependency on foreign oil. Sadly this is easier said than done. The expenses that comes with building hydrogen fuel cells not to mention the absence of hydrogen fueling stations around the country creates a major obstruction for the fulfillment of this goal.

But thanks to companies like Honda which is at present is looking at an experimental home energy station that is making use of natural gas supplied to most homes to produce hydrogen fuel, hot water, heat, and electricity. According to Ben Knight, Honda’s vice president for research in the Americas, the best thing about hydrogen is that it can be extracted from a broad range of sources that includes methane or natural gas, bio-mass and renewable sources like solar or wind.

He further added that the next generation FCX is a “quantum leap forward”. The FCX will also be given a much higher price tag at least $500 more totaling to only a fraction of the approximate $1.5 million production cost of each Hydrogen fuel celled Honda.

Honda has already sold 30 units of their eco-friendly car worldwide. Mr. Knight also said that the production of the FCX model would eventually surpass the current fleet. Just to give customers a taste of what the FCX has to offer Honda has leased one to a family in California two years ago and last March another FCX was leased to a 17-year-old actress and environmental activist Q'orianka Kilcher. Honda has also allowed journalists to test drive two of its FCX. In addition government officials including top White House environmental adviser James COnnaughton were also invited to test drive Honda’s FCX.

The FCX when accelerating gives off a sound similar to a jet engine rather than a conventional gasoline engine. It is also has superior acceleration as compared to the current model that has a top speed of only 100 mph. Honda has also assured that the production vehicle will be similar to the concept showed last Thursday complete with the upgraded bumpers and revised interior.

Honda is not the only automaker that is conducting research on hydrogen vehicles; most major carmakers have spent billions on research alone. China is also investing heavily in hydrogen and if everything goes well for them they may even become the first country to adopt hydrogen vehicles in large volume.

It can be remembered that General Motors has said that it would introduce the world’s largest fleet of hydrogen-powered Chevrolte Equinox SUVs by means of its “Project Driveway” program in New York, Washington, DC, and California. And next week GM has scheduled a tour to take journalists on a 300-mile drive from its labs in Honeoye Falls, N.Y. to Tarrytown, N.Y., to update them on the progress of its hydrogen research. GM is hoping to build a 1000 vehicle fleet between 2010 and 2012.

Ford Motor Co. is also working on its plug-in electric hydrogen-powered vehicle with a range of 225 miles which will be called HySEries Edge. In addition Ford will have a fleet of hydrogen powered E-450 shuttle buses aside from hydrogen vehicles. DaimlerChrysler for its part will also be producing 100 hydrogen fuel cells to be distributed worldwide and that includes the 25 units destined for California. BMW will also be producing its own 100 Hydrogen 7 vehicles and plans to be leasing them next year.

2007 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350

SLK 350 - new 3.5 L (3498 cc) 200 kW (272 hp DIN) double overhead cam V6 engine, 0-100 km/h (62 mph) 5.4 seconds, top speed 155 mph (electronically limited).

Ride, acceleration and handling:
Acceleration and handling are top-notch. The electronic stability-control system in the SLK 350 is one of the best available--constantly monitoring steering inputs and quickly acting to correct errors, such as turning too quickly into a curve. Ride is excellent for trips of 50 miles or so on relatively clear roads. But with its cramped cabin and up-righteous seats, trips of longer durations, especially in heavy traffic, can become a chore.

Head-turning quotient:
Deliberately hot, sexy, sporty. It turns heads everywhere.

Body style/layout:
The SLK 350 is a front-engine, rear-wheel-drive luxury roadster with a power-operated, convertible hardtop roof. It has two side doors, two seats, no cabin space for cargo and a teeny trunk that can handle two small overnight bags. SLK models include the tested 350, the base 280 and the top-of-the-line SLK 55 AMG.

Engine/transmission:
Standard equipment includes a 3.5-liter, 24-valve, V-6 engine that develops 268 horsepower at 6,000 revolutions per minute and 258 foot-pounds of torque at 2,400 rpm. The engine is linked to a six-speed manual transmission. A seven-speed automatic transmission that also can be shifted manually is optional ... for $1,430.

Capacities:
There are two seats. Cargo capacity is 9.8 cubic feet. The fuel tank holds 18.5 gallons of required premium unleaded gasoline.

Mileage:
We had a city/highway mileage of 20 miles per gallon.

Safety:
Antilock brakes, electronic stability and traction control, and side air bags are standard.

Price:
Base price on the 2007 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Roadster with manual transmission is $47,400. Dealer's invoice price on that model is $44,082. Price as tested is $57,620, including $9,445 in options (key fob that can operate doors, convertible hardtop and windows; premium audio system; Mercedes-Benz Tele Aid emergency communications system; onboard navigation; Sirius Satellite Radio, among many other spiffs) and a $775 destination charge. Dealer's price as tested is $53,640. Prices sourced from Mercedes-Benz and www.edmunds.com.

Purse-strings note:
It's a great toy. Compare with BMW Z4, Nissan 350Z, Porsche Boxster.

Complaints:
It's expensive, impractical and designed to stay that way.

Dodge Nitro 2007

The 2007 Dodge Nitro is an all new mid-size SUV monster. Dodge redesigned the full-size Durango in 2004, and since then has been planning the Nitro. There are many mid-size SUVs out there, and Dodge wanted the Nitro to be distinctive, in order to keep up its reputation for bold styling. The result is a very squared-off vehicle, with larger fender flares.

The Nitro looks and feels larger than its size, with a high seating position that SUV owners enjoy, and good cabin space. It features a cargo storage system whereby the rear seats and front passenger seat fold totally flat in seconds; additionally, the cargo floor slides rearward out over the rear bumper, and can hold 400 pounds, making the loading of heavy objects much simpler.

The Nitro comes in either two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive, with a choice of V6 engines, one old and one new version. The new 4.0-liter V6 is better than the old 3.7-liter, with 50 more HP and fuel economy that's only a few miles per gallon less. However the 4.0-liter engine only comes in the top-of-the-line R/T model, which costs about $2700 more than the most popular SLT but a five-speed automatic also comes with the R/T, and that transmission is better than the standard four-speed in the SLT.

There are three types of upholstery: cloth, a stain-repellant cloth, and perforated leather. No matter which interior option, the seats are very comfortable. The cabin is quiet thanks to heavy use of sound deadening material, and visibility out the rear and to the front corners of the Nitro is excellent.

For a base price of $19,225, a Nitro owner gets many safety features that are usually optional on other vehicles, such as front and rear side airbags, side curtain airbags, an electronic stability program with traction control and brake assist, and a tire-pressure monitor to cap it all off.

Model Lineup

The 2007 Dodge Nitro comes as three models, each with a choice of two-wheel drive (2WD) or four-wheel drive (4WD).

There are three models of the new 2007 Dodge Nitro: the SXT in 2WD, $20,735 with part-time 4WD), SLT ($22,635 and $24,145) and R/T and with full-time 4WD); all prices plus $660 delivery.

The SXT ($19,225) comes with a 210-hp 3.7-liter V6 and a choice of 6 speed manual transmission or 4 speed automatic ($1000). The 4WD model ($20,735) uses a part-time four-wheel-drive system. Standard equipment includes cloth upholstery, air conditioning, remote entry with power windows and door locks, 115-volt power outlet, flat folding front passenger seat, 60/40 folding rear bench seat, AM/FM/CD with MP3 and six speakers, traction control and brake assist, slate-colored molded front and fender flares, folding power mirrors, rear window washer/wiper, and 16-inch wheels.

The SLT ($22,635) and SLT 4WD ($24,145) come standard with the auto trans. The SLT adds stain-resistant cloth seats, power six-way adjustable driver's seat, leather steering wheel with audio controls, overhead console, cruise control, heated mirrors, compass, auto-dimming rearview mirror, vehicle information instrumentation, tinted windows, body-colored front and rear fascias and fender flares, and 17-inch aluminum wheels.

The R/T ($25,310) has a new 4.0-liter V6 making 260 horsepower, joined to a five-speed automatic. The R/T 4WD model ($26,970) has a full-time four-wheel-drive system. The R/T comes with a sports suspension with 20-inch wheels and Goodyear Eagle tires. The R/T is equipped like the SLT, though it also has Satellite Radio.

Options for all three models include a power sunroof, foglamps, full-size spare tire, and trailer tow package. Full-time 4WD is an option on the part-time 4WD SXT and SLT models. Options for the SLT and R/T include leather upholstery, navigation system, remote start, hands-free phone, luxury sound system with eight speakers plus subwoofer. The optional Multimedia Info-tainment System features navigation, audio, entertainment and communication wrapped into one, along with voice-command and a 20-gigabyte hard drive to store music and photos.
Dodge Nitro Reviews
Walkaround

Dodge publicity makes a big thing about the Nitro's looks, citing its so-called athleticism. We're not sure. We might call it brawny, but mostly it just looks boxy. The exaggerated fender flares are the only rounded parts in the styling. Every other angle is square-ish. It looks and feels larger than mid-size, which some will find to be a good thing.

From the front, it's unmistakably Dodge. It's got that big crosshair grille, which looks much better in body color (R/T) than chrome (SXT, SLT). The horizontal headlamps, turn signal slits and foglamps are a tidy fit in the massive face.

However it doesn't appear as if much attempt was made to have the front bumper/fascia be tidy; it's got edges all over the place, including a valley that might hold a three-foot-wide license plate, or maybe a bumper sticker that says, "I'm a Dodge so I'm in your face!" Under that, there's a wide air intake for the power steering cooler, whose thin fins are exposed to flying stones because there is no screen.

Taking a cue from the faux portholes on the Buick Lucerne, or possibly the tradition of a Mercedes-Benz sports car, there's a trapezoid-shaped insert, black plastic with three chrome ribs, located just forward of the mirrors. It's intended to look like a cooling slot. It's a nice touch, and for such a small piece it goes a long way toward relaxing the Nitro's blocky shape.

In silhouette, with its relatively upright windshield, very high beltline and rectangular windows, plus short front overhang, its shape is reminiscent of, say, a '62 Dodge Power Wagon. But from the rear three-quarter angle, the lines around the rear glass are reminiscent of its bigger cousin, the Jeep Commander. We like the cleaner black, rather than chrome, around the windows.

Our test Nitro R/T was equipped with standard 20-inch chromed aluminum wheels, and they sure are showy. The much narrower sidewall on the 20-inch tires doesn't appear to offer much defense against flats.

Interior Features

The SXT comes in a basic cloth, but the cloth in the SLT and R/T is something called YES Essentials; it claims to repel stains, control odors and reduce static electricity. The optional perforated charcoal leather with red stitching in our test R/T was beautiful. The front buckets were very comfortable and supportive, with excellent bolstering.

The steering wheel is a handsome four-spoke, with a big center hub and thick spokes at 9:00 and 3:00 o'clock, smaller spokes at 5 and 7; the info center buttons are under your thumb on the big spokes. There are three big main instruments: speedo in center, tach on right and fuel and temp on left. They're very good looking and especially legible, with the digital information still visible in the sun because the three pods are thoughtfully shrouded. Chrysler does gauges right, and generally blows GM out of the water when it comes to handsome style and function.

There's good front seat legroom, and it feels like there's even more because the dashboard is narrow, making the cabin feel nothing like that in a minivan. The dash also has an insert over the center stack, about 6 by 9 inches with grippy rubber at the bottom, and it's perfect for, well, things. The glovebox is the full width of the passenger side.

Rearview visibility is very good, with just windows back there, no attempt at swoopy styling with sheetmetal. And again, because the front fenders have no rise or real shape, it's easy to see the front corners of the vehicle, making parking a relief compared to many vehicles this size.

The square theme continues with the center stack and its instruments and buttons for the sound system and climate control, although nowadays many cars look like that, which isn't bad, just almost natural. Everything is clean, easy to operate, and easy to understand. We especially like the door handles, an intelligent ergonomic design: they're like a half loop, and you simply slip three or four fingers of the hand against the door inside the handle, fingers facing forward so there's no twist of the wrist, and pull.

Between the seats, along with the gearshift, transfer case, and emergency brake lever, there are two fixed cupholders and a small recess for change. There's a shallow tray in the top of the center console storage bin, and a deep compartment under that; as one lady on the press launch said, it's big enough to stash her cat, on road trips.

But the Nitro really rises to the occasion behind the front seat. The Load 'n Go function quickly and easily flops the 60/40 rear seats and front passenger seat totally flat. With the liftgate raised, the carpeted (washable vinyl on the SXT) cargo floor slides rearward 18 inches, out over the bumper, saving a loader's back. It can hold 400 pounds.

Under half of the cargo floor there's a four-inch-deep compartment that can store things such as jumper cables and tools, or hide a laptop.

For the past couple of years, Dodge has been working hard on making their SUVs quiet, and the Nitro succeeds. The 3.7-liter engine is rather loud, but the Nitro's sound-deadening material muffles it well.

Finally, the air conditioning might be fine on a normal day, but it seemed marginal for hot conditions.

Driving Impressions

After long cruises in both the Dodge Nitro SLT 4WD and R/T 2WD, we prefer the R/T.

The 3.7-liter engine in the SLT is slightly harsh and too slow, and the four-speed automatic transmission needs another gear; we floored the SLT once at 40 mph, and the tranny didn't kick down and the vehicle felt wimpy. The suspension takes bumps with a jolt, especially at lower speeds and mostly at the front wheels. And when we turned off the stability control and drove it aggressively around a hairpin turn, the front end washed out as badly as anything we've felt in a long time, on its Goodyear Wrangler tires. This was surprising, because the Nitro is a rear-wheel-drive design.

The R/T costs about $2700 more, but it's def. worth it. It's better looking, with more of its trim in the same color as the body, although the 20" chrome wheels are a bit expensive (as a $1405 option on the SLT, too bad you can't get 17-" size on the R/T and save the money). Chrysler's R/T models are considered higher performance, but in this case it's not hot-rod high performance.

The 4.0-liter V6 is a new single overhead-cam engine. It's rated at 260 horsepower, 50 more than the engine in the SLT, and it provides 265 pound-feet of torque at 4200 rpm. That's a lot of horsepower and torque, and we can't say that the R/T really feels like it has that much.

The R/T engine is quieter than the 3.7-liter in the SLT, and it gets nearly the same mileage: 17 city and 21 highway in 2WD, with 89 octane recommended but 87 acceptable. We got 16.7 mpg driving the R/T very hard.

The five-speed automatic transmission makes a difference in smoothness over the 4-speed. However in manual mode, it doesn't do well. It responds to a shift by the driver (at least this driver) about half the time. As a result, passing on highways is unnecessarily dangerous. The upshifts near redline (6000 rpm) are also a bit slow. And the shift mechanism is not comfortable, either.

The handling of the R/T is reasonable, and considerably more direct than the SLT; quality tires help quite a bit. But it's the ride that's much better, in this 2WD model. In theory, the R/T's tuned suspension should be much more firm, and surely it is a better vehicle overall, but it's also a lot more comfortable.

Dodge's "Pony Car" in the 1970s

The Dodge Challenger made its debut in the fall of 1969 as a 1970 model. While it shared the "E-body" platform with the Plymouth Barracuda, Dodge Challenger's wheelbase was two inches longer, creating more interior space.

The Dodge Challenger was originally offered as either a two-door hardtop or convertible. And, befitting the brand's performance heritage, the Dodge Challenger also went racing in its first year, competing most notably in the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) Trans-Am series and National Hot Rod Association's Pro Stock class.

Although it was produced only from 1970 to 1974, the Dodge Challenger earned a reputation as one of the most desirable of the original "pony cars," with meticulously restored or rare examples today selling for six-figure prices.

In its first year, Dodge Challenger was offered in a limited-edition T/A (for Trans-Am) model to meet homologation requirements for SCCA Trans-Am racing. In 1971, a Dodge Challenger paced the Indianapolis 500 race. New front-end styling in 1972 featured a larger, "egg-crate" grille. In April 1974, Challenger production ceased. Over a five-year span, approximately 188,600 Dodge Challengers were sold.

The Dodge Challenger is another chapter in Chrysler Group's long history of bringing concepts to production, with vehicles such as the Dodge Viper, Plymouth Prowler, Chrysler PT Cruiser and Jeep® Compass.

"Our product development system allows us to quickly turn concepts into high-quality production vehicles," said Eric Ridenour. "We're justifiably proud of our speed to market, and Dodge Challenger is the latest example of our focus on getting gotta-have-it vehicles to our customers."

Dodge Brand

With 1.4 million vehicles sold globally in 2005, Dodge is the No. 5 nameplate in the U.S. automotive market. Overall, Dodge has a 7 percent market share in the United States. In the minivan market, Dodge has a 22 percent market share; in the truck market, 16 percent; and 5 percent of the car market.

This year, Dodge Caliber paved the way for international expansion of the brand. Hot on the heels of Caliber are the all-new 2007 Dodge Nitro, Caliber SRT4 and a D-segment vehicle.

How Extend The Life Of Your Car Battery

There are several strategies you can use to extend the life of your car battery and avoid a dead battery crisis. Regular maintenance of your automotive battery is a must, especially in extreme weather conditions. Remember over heating is bad. Check the electrolyte level in the battery. One of the easiest cleaning tips, is to make sure the terminals are clean. You can buy an cheap terminal brush and scrub off any corrosion on the battery terminals and cables. Sometimes a dead battery is nothing more than corroded terminals. Once they are clean, your car will crank right up. Car batteries also need to be recharged after deep cycle discharges and jump starts.
If you run an auto shop or other mechanical service, you will need a car battery charger to recharge your batteries. The time required to charge a car battery back to a full charge depends on the number of ampere hours (AH) depleted. Ampere hours are calculated by multiplying the number of hours times the number of Amps that the battery supplied to the load. For example, if a load was connected to a battery that used 7 Amps for 5 hours, the car battery supplied 35 Ahs. The recharge time would then be calculated by dividing 35 Ahs by the amperage charge rate of the charger. Once you are armed with this information you can make sure your batteries are fully charged and remain healthy.

If you are storing you batteries for a long period of time, such as a ski boat in winter. A trickle charger is highly recommended. These will slowly charge your battery and make sure it remains fully charged through the winter months. It is better to let the battery stay fully charged then try to recharge it in the spring. Fully discharging the battery will reduce its overall life.
By taking these simple suggestions, you can extend the life of your battery and hopefully avoid getting caught with a car that won’t start.

Engine Details of Mercedes CL 65 AMG

The outstanding qualities of the AMG V12 engine have won for it awards like the “International Engine of the Year Awards” in the “Best Performance Engine” category in the year 2004. The 450-kW/612 hp AMG power unit was proclaimed winner beating over 70 other competitors from US, Japan, and Europe.

In the manufacturing facility for the AMG engine the philosophy is “One man, one engine” which means that each AMG 12 engine is hand-assembled from start to finish by a single engineer following the strict quality standards impose by the Mercedes-Benz. The “one man, one engine” philosophy is documented by the engineer’s signature found on the AMG engine plate.

The twelve-cylinder biturbo engine found in the CL65 AMG features the latest technology from the world of motorsport. The highly flexible components and materials assured the continuous influx of power and torque even when operating at extreme temperatures. These components include high precision-balanced crankshaft that is created out from high strength materials; forged pistons made from special materials that are extremely resistant from pressure and temperature; and a more effective oil-spray cooling system with a distinct nozzle for each piston, plus some larger piston pins.

The major and big-end bearings are also made from high quality materials to counteract the pressure and the temperature more effectively. The charge cycle in the cylinder heads gets some advantage out from the optimized combustion chambers as well as on the extended opening times of the intake valves. Moreover, a modified oil pump makes sure that all the parts that need lubrication are supplied with oil even under extreme conditions. To further boost the performance of the AMG engine an engine oil cooler is also added in the front apron with the addition of an extra engine coolant radiator located in the wheel arch.

Redesigned charge-air cooler…
The charge-air cooler has also been modified with a low temperature radiator positioned in the front of the vehicle which was made almost 70 percent larger. The system functions on the precept of an air-to-water heat exchanger for an effective cooling of the intake air which are compressed by the turbochargers before they are made to enter the combustion chambers.

The extra surface area added for the low temperature radiator results in a 25 percent reduction in the intake temperature at full throttle and assures high power and torque output in any operating conditions regardless of the temperature outside.

The casing or the frame of the compressor and the turbine in both turbochargers together with the turbine and compressor wheels has been enlarged producing a maximum charge pressure of 1.5 bar.

The electronically controlled fuel supply with its new developed components functioned with a variable system pressure between 3.6 and 5.0 bar. The fuel pressure is also regulated intermittently in accordance to the required power and the temperature outside. The engine management system interprets the command from the accelerator and makes the necessary action.

AMG sports an especially designed Mercedes exhaust system…
The powerful sound of the AMG twelve-cylinder is guaranteed by the AMG sports exhaust system with two trim chromed tailpipes in the exclusive AMG V12 design. Similarly catalytic converters that has tri-metallic coating can provide a faster response from a cold start and offer an efficient exhaust-gas after treatment and an extensive service life. The CL 65 AMG also complies with the EU4 emissions standard as well as the emission requirements for the US market.

Here are the major data for the CL65 AMG

- Cylinder configuration/valves per cylinder – V12/3
- Displacement cc – 5980
- Bore x stroke mm - 82.6 x 93.0
- Compression ratio - 9.0 : 1
- Output kW/hp at rpm – 450/612;4800-5100
- Max. torque Nm at rpm - 1000 2000-4000
- Acceleration 0-100 km/h s - 4.4
- Top speed km/h - 250

The AMG Speedshift 5-speed automatic transmission and steering-wheel gearshift paddles
The driving power of the new CL65 AMG is distributed to the wheels by the AMG Speedshift 5-speed automatic transmission with AMG gearshift paddles and DIRECT SELECT gearshift. There is also an S/C/M button found on the centre console that enables drivers to choose the driving modes that they want like Manual, Comfort, and Sport driving.

The driving modes will also change the transmission characteristics and in turn alter the accelerator response and the spring/damper settings of the AMG sports suspension basing on the Active Body Control. The gears may also be shifted manually at any time by using the silver-colored aluminum shift paddles on the ergonomically designed sports steering wheel.

The AMG V12 delivers a potent torque of 1000 Nm calls for a powertrain that has been systematically reinforced. For the automatic transmission this will include newly developed clutch plates coated with high quality metallic plus the modified shift and torque converter lock-up logic. These are supplemented with the redesigned shafts, larger hub carriers and made even more durable steel spring links.

1992-96 2.2L 4 cylinder excluding VTEC engine Honda Prelude S model Radiator

This replacement radiator is just what you need to get your vehicle in working order again. All of our radiators feature these great qualities:

* Direct replacement that is built to strict quality control specifications
* Engineered for optimum heat-transfer performance and fit
* 100% tested each and every time
* Plastic tanks with metal core
* Guaranteed fit to standard and automatic transmission models

Specifications

Core Size: 13 3/4" x 26 1/4" x 1 1/4"
Top header: 2" x 27"
Bottom header: 2" x 27"
Inlet kneck diameter: 1 1/4"
Outlet kneck diameter: 1 1/4"
Rows: 2
Distance between transmission oil cooler fittings: 12 3/4"

This part is built to strict quality control standards. Makes a great replacement and has substantial cost savings over a dealer unit.

A note on Radiator and Heater Core Shipping: Due to the nature and size, a radiator may incur small dents and scratches on the cooling fins, tubes and/or tanks from handling and load shifting during shipping. Bent tubes can be easily repaired and dents and scratches do not affect the fit or function of the part. Neither our 60 Day satisfaction guarantee, nor the manufacturer’s warranty, cover these insignificant damages.
This Part Fits The Following Model Years:

* 1992 (92) Honda Prelude
* 1993 (93) Honda Prelude
* 1994 (94) Honda Prelude
* 1995 (95) Honda Prelude
* 1996 (96) Honda Prelude
engines cars hybrid engine reviews

Cleaning Your Car Engine

A few precautions- Always wear good eye protection when using chemical cleaning agents like engine degreasers. You absolutely must disconnect your vehicle's negative battery cable before beginning any cleaning work on the engine and/or electrical system. Please also refer to your vehicle's service manual for any cleaning instructions or precautions that may specifically apply to your particular engine.

Step One- Before you begin the cleaning, start the engine, let it warm up for a few minutes then shut it off, in order to soften up collected grease and grit in your engine compartment. The correct cleaning temperature for the engine to be is warm but not hot- you should be able to hold your hand to the engine without burning it.

Before cleaning the engine with water, it's imperative to cover electrical and mechanical components beneath the hood to protect them from water damage. The air intake/air filter, the distributor, the coil and the oil dipstick/breather should be covered using plastic baggies sealed with rubber bands It's a good idea to also check the tightness of the oil filler cap, power steering filler cap, windshield washer fluid cap, oil dip stick, battery filler caps and secure baggies over them.

Step Two- Spray all over the engine and engine compartment with non-petroleum based degreaser, starting from the bottom and working up. Citrus degreasing products will not harm the paint or finish on aluminum components and are biodegradable. After 3-5 minutes use a soft cotton towel or brush to carefully scrub the heavy dirt. Re-spray and re-scrub any areas that need additional cleaning. Once the whole engine and engine compartment has been cleaned, rinse thoroughly with water. Try to avoid getting the degreaser on any exterior painted areas as it will strip the wax from your finish. If this happens, it's okay, but you'll have to give those areas a good wax job when you're through.

Step three- Once clean, right away take off all the plastic baggies. Dry any collected water, especially on aluminum parts, with a soft cotton towel. Using paper towels, dry the battery. Start the engine and let it warm up, in order to dry the remainder of the engine and evaporate any moisture in sensitive components. Once everything is dry and cooled off is a good chance to put a coating of rubber protectant on your rubber hoses, plastic shields and rubber gaskets.

Step Four- If the battery terminals are dirty, disconnect the cables and clean both the cable terminals and battery posts with a wire brush. Reconnect the terminals and retighten. Get some battery terminal spray and spray on the connected terminals to protect them from corrosion.

Step Five- A thin coating of non-silicone lubricant should be applied to any hinges, throttle cables, cruise control cables and similar moving parts. Now check and top off fluid levels.

Take your car out for a spin and make sure the engine runs satisfactorily. Congratulations, you're done and now should have a spotless shiny engine compartment.

Turbocharger Tips

Turbocharger serves to pump more air into the engine boosting engine power without increasing the engine volume.
Due to its design, the turbocharger works at very high temperatures. Therefore, the requirements to the engine oil quality are much higher. Low quality, or old contaminated oil can be easily cooked under high temperature in the turbocharger causing it to fail.
Here are few tips:
- If it's not against manufacturer recommendations, use synthetic oil, or at least be very accurate with regular oil changes.

- When you stop the car after hard driving (speeding, accelerating, etc.) don't shut the engine off right away, let it idle for a while to cool down the turbocharger.

- Very long uphill driving under constant load may also cause turbo to overheat, try to avoid it if possible.

Turbocharged Direct Injection

The engine uses direct injection where a fuel injector sprays directly into the engine cylinder rather than the pre-combustion chamber prevalent in older diesels which used indirect injection. The engine is coupled with a turbocharger and intercooler to increase the amount of air that can get into the engine cylinders, thereby increasing the amount of fuel that can be injected and combusted. In combination, these allow for greater engine performance while also decreasing harmful emissions.

Other companies also use similar technology today, but "TDI" refers to these type engines. Normally-aspirated engines (those without a turbocharger) made by Volkswagen Group use the label "Saugdiesel Direct Injection" (SDI).

The reduced material volume of the direct injection diesel engine reduces heat losses and thereby increases engine efficiency, at the expense of increased combustion noise. A direct injection engine is also easier to start when cold, due to the reduced heat loss of the design.


Fuel

Like all diesel engines, TDI engines can run on petrodiesel or biodiesel. When converted properly, one can be made to also run on straight vegetable oil (SVO) or waste vegetable oil (WVO). Most conversions also make it possible to run on kerosene.

In terms of fuel efficiency, and clean emissions when run on biodiesel or SVO/WVO, TDI engines are among the best on the market. This is often overlooked because they do not drive on gasoline. The common Volkswagen 1.9L TDI, officially gets between 37-57 mpg for the automatic and 42-61 mpg for the 5-speed.

Newer TDI engines, with higher injection pressures, are less forgiving about poor-quality fuel than their 1980s ancestors. No. 2 diesel fuel is recommended since it has a higher cetane number than No. 1 fuel and has lower viscosity (better ability to flow) than heavier fuel oils. Many enthusiasts have converted their TDI cars to run on SVO or WVO by installing devices that pre-heat the oil to lower its viscosity, as the viscosity of unrefined oil is much higher than petrodiesel or biodiesel.

Volkswagen of America does not endorse the use of biodiesel in high percentages. They state that "[s]hould the use of substandard fuels, or higher level blends of biodiesel, damage your engine or fuel system, such damage cannot be covered under warranty." Thus a high-percentage biodiesel user who encounters fuel system problems can reasonably expect difficulty obtaining service under warranty if the biodiesel use is apparent to the dealer.

Thermotime switch

A thermotime switch is a sensor used to control the cold start enrichment process in some older fuel injection systems. An extra injector is placed in the inlet manifold designed to feed all of the cylinders, and whilst the other injectors have flow rates controlled by pulse duration, the cold start injector stays on during the initial cold starting procedure.

This duration is controlled by the thermotime switch, which is a bimetallic strip based device placed in the water jacket. When an engine first starts, the coolant temperature is cold and the bimetallic strip is closed, which in turn supplies the cold start injector with current.

A small heater coil is built in to the thermotime switch, which effectively gives a timed output to the cold start injector with the timing duration dependent on the temperature of the engine. If the engine is started whilst warm the bimetallic strip remains open due to the higher temperature, meaning the cold start routine is not entered.

MAFless Tuning

MAFless tuning is a method of operating the fuel injection system on a gasoline-powered motor vehicle whereby the mass airflow meter, or MAF, is removed.


The MAF

The MAF is a component in a vehicle's intake system through which air flows past a wire that is heated by an electrical current. The airflow cools the wire, enabling the MAF to calculate the volume of airflow into the engine. The vehicle's engine management computer then uses this information to calculate the correct amount of fuel to be delivered to the cylinders by the fuel injection system.


Removing the MAF

When tuning a MAF-equipped vehicle to operate in MAFless mode, the MAF is removed. This requires the use of an alternative method of calculating airflow into the engine. On vehicles so equipped, this alternative involves the use of a manifold absolute pressure, or MAP, sensor. The MAP sensor measures pressure in the engine's inlet manifold. When coupled with data regarding the engine's revolutions per minute, or RPM, and throttle position, the MAP sensor can be used by the engine management computer to calculate fuel requirements.


Advantages

By changing the engine from MAF mode to MAFless/MAP mode, vehicle modifiers claim two advantages:

* The MAF may pose a physical restriction across the vehicle's intake tract, thereby reducing airflow into the engine. By removing the MAF this restriction is eliminated, potentially improving engine performance.

* By moving the airflow measurement sensor from the intake plumbing to a point closer to the cylinders, the time lag from air moving past the sensor to reaching the cylinder can be reduced, thereby improving throttle response.


Disadvantages

A potential disadvantage of converting an engine from MAF to MAFless mode is that where the MAP sensor is used to measure airflow, the corresponding fuel calculations must be performed by the computer based on tables of information programmed by the engine tuner. If other parts of the engine are subsequently modified with an effect on airflow through the engine, these fuel tables must be adjusted to match the revised engine hardware. By contrast, when operating in MAF mode the computer can automatically adjust its fuel delivery based on the airflow data generated by the MAF, even if other engine hardware is changed.


Applications

MAFless tuning is a popular modification in Australia for Holden vehicles powered by the General Motors LS1 Gen III 5.7 V8 engine. The genesis for MAFless tuning of the LS1 in Australia was the HSV GTS version of the Holden Commodore, which was factory fitted with a Callaway-developed C4B version of that engine running in MAFless mode. Rated at 300 kW, the C4B was the most powerful factory LS1 sold in Australia and created substantial credibility for MAFless tuning of LS1 V8s. Within days of the HSV GTS's release the CSV Veloce was on the Australian market with a 330 kW LS1 incorporating a MAFless configuration, and taking Australian motoring performance to a new level.

However, tuners of the LS1 in North America tend to prefer retaining the MAF, instead overcoming intake tract restrictions by installing a MAF with a larger diameter body.

Minimize Engine Movement and Vibration With a Functional Mercedes Transmission Mount

A ride in your Mercedes Benz should be a comfortable one, with the slightest feel of movement possible. However, with a broken vehicle mount, this would be absolutely impossible.

In your vehicle, there are actually several kinds of mounts namely: the engine, transmission, body-to frame, drive shaft supports and strut mounts. Basically, these mounts have three functions. One is to serve as an attachment point for a part to the chassis, another is to serve as an isolator to keep noise or vibration from being transmitted throughout the car, and lastly, to act as an adjustment point to keep a component in proper alignment.

The Mercedes transmission mount, in particular, forms the rear support of the engine/transmission assembly, and provides the correct operating angle for the front of the drive shaft. Aside from this, it has the vital function of reducing torque and vibration in the drive line, and minimizing the vibration transmitted to the chassis, along with the engine mount.

The Mercedes transmission mount, just like other mounts are mostly made of either rubber or steel. Due to this, factors such as usage, automotive chemicals such as oil and other contaminants can lead to its deterioration and failure.

When the Mercedes transmission fails, the amount of stress upon the engine mount will eventually increase. This will lead to the failure of the engine mount as well. Moreover, there is a huge tendency that a failed transmission mount could lead to accelerated wear or failing of the universal joins. If this happens, costly repairs will be needed.

Several types of transmission mounts are found in the market but remember that certain types may not exactly work for your vehicle. The race-type mounts can stabilize the transmission too much that you can feel every bit of vibration in your car. Other after-market mounts are designed to make mounts even stiffer. It is careful to choose the kind that can decrease unwanted transmission movement while efficiently controlling the amount of vibration.

There are several ways in which you can determine that your Mercedes transmission mount is failing. The presence of hydraulic fluid in your transmission mount, it may be a sign that it is already failing. Abnormal noises like a knocking sound and excessive engine movement can also be indicators.

It is therefore important to replace your Mercedes transmission mount once it fails. Delaying it can just cause you more serious and more costly damage repairs.

Making 100 Mpg A Reality

Getting 100mpg can seem like a pipe dream to many, but this is no longer one of those mythical numbers. It's already being done, right now, in vehicles you see on the road today.

For some people, getting 100mpg is as simple as getting a Moped. Sure, there's nothing really magical about a 50cc gasoline engine, but the very lightweight Moped can be great if you live in a city with heavy traffic and a lot of bike lanes (usually a Moped can drive in lanes for bicycles). I have a friend who lives in Boston, and he tells me that his little scooter is the best way to get around town since it can drive on the road like a regular car, and then take bike lanes to get through traffic backups quickly.

But for the rest of us who need an actual car to get somewhere, 100mpg is in a car that can drive on the highway is possible. While they aren't rolling of production lines, a person with a little know-how and some ingenuity can achieve the mythical 100mpg by starting with a car you can get from your dealer right now - a Toyota Prius.

For those who like to tinker, and if you live in an area with a lot of sunlight, you might consider installing a solar panels on your rooftop so that while your car is parked while you're out and about, the electric battery is being recharged. While this isn't the most efficient way to use solar panels (the roof of your house is a much better place for them), on some trips you may be able to hit 100mpg.

Then there's what many would consider the more sensible conversion - taking your current Prius Hybrid and converting it into a Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle. The conversion will run you in the neighborhood of $5,000-$6,000 if you like to do things yourself or you can have a conversion company do it for you for about $10,000-$12,000.

Converting your Prius to a PHEV can help you hit the 100mpg mark when taking your daily commute since you'll be relying mostly on the electric motors to do all the work. And if you're taking short trips, the gasoline engine may not need to fire at all, which means you've used no gasoline for that trip.

And if you're feeling flush with cash, you live in Southern California, and you want to say goodbye to gasoline forever, you can get yourself a Tesla Roadster ($95,000). This vehicle is 100% electric, requires no gasoline, can do 0-60mpg in 4 seconds (about what a Porsche 911 Turbo can do), and has a range of over 200 miles. This vehicle gets the equivalent of 135 miles per gallon and costs only 2 cents/mile to drive (even the most fuel efficient non hybrid cars cost at least 8 cents/mile to drive)

How Tires Affect Your Gas Mileage

Your tires - where the rubber meets the road.

And when it comes to saving money on gas, there's a lot of opportunity to get better milesge from your tires. Here are some tips for getting better mileage with your tires.

1 - Proper Inflation

It's been estimated that up to 50% of people are driving around on underinflated tires. While tires that don't have proper air pressure in them are unsafe, you will also lose 2% of your gas mileage for every 5 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure that you are below the manufacturers recommended pressure. The reason is that if your tire isn't inflated properly, there's going to be more tire touching the road, causing more friction, which reduces gas mileage.

How can you tell if your tires are underinflated? Well, if they look flat they probably are, but it's not always possible to tell if your tires are properly inflated just by looking at them. In fact, it's actually quite difficult. What you need is a tool called a tire pressure gauge that you can get from any auto parts store and even your local Walmart or Sears - they're not expensive. Also, some gas station hoses will have one of these tools built onto them so you can check your pressure when you fill up.

When you're filling up one tire, make sure you check the rest to make sure that all your tires are properly and evenly inflated.

2 - Type of Tire

Some tires have specialized purposes - like snow tires. Snow tires are really good at driving through snow, but they do so at the expense of gas mileage. If you put snow tires on for the winter, make sure you get them off in spring.

Also, using steel belted tires can help you improve your gas mileage by up to 10%.

And when you're buying tires, try to fine a tire that has a low rolling resistance.

Wide tires and studded tires will both significantly lower your gas mileage.

3 - Alignment & Balance

Make sure that your wheels are properly balanced and aligned. While this isn't really something you can do at home without specialized equipment, your local auto repair shop can easily do this for you. Keeping everything aligned and balanced means that your tires will roll as freely as possible, helping you consume less gas.

While there are a lot of things you can do to save money on gas, make sure you don't neglect looking at improving your tires since they're the only part of your vehicle that actually touches the road.

Porsche will have pulses racing

The Porsche 911 GT3


2007 Lotus Exige S

Base price: $60,815

Powertrain:
Mid-mounted supercharged and inter-cooled 1.8-liter DOHC inline four cylinder with variable valve timing; six-speed manual transmission; rear-wheel drive

Horsepower:
220 hp at 8,000 rpm

Torque:
165 pound-feet at 5,500 rpm

Curb weight:
2,077 pounds

0-60 mph:
4 seconds

Wheelbase:
90.5 inches

Overall length:
149.5 inches

EPA fuel economy:
23 miles per gallon city, 29 mpg highway



2007 Porsche 911 GT3

Base price: $106,860

Powertrain:
Rear-mounted, naturally aspirated, horizontally opposed DOHC six cylinder with variable induction and valve timing; six-speed manual transmission; rear-wheel drive

Horsepower:
415 at 7,600 rpm

Torque:
300 pound-feet at 5,500 rpm

Curb weight:
3,031 pounds

0-60 mph:
4 seconds

Wheelbase:
92.9 inches

Overall length:
176.9 inches

EPA fuel economy:
17 miles per gallon city, 24 mpg highway


If you think "low polar moment" has to do with melting ice caps, these cars are not for you. These cars are turnkey club racers, factory-prepped competition cars that you can drive to the track, hot lap and drive home on what's left of the tires. They are toys, although in general lethality, more in line with those made by General Dynamics than Mattel.

These cars -- the Lotus Exige S and the Porsche 911 GT3 -- belong to an esoteric subset of performance cars: stripped down, tweaked to the gills, barely legal. You could count among them the Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera and the Ferrari F430 Challenge Stradale. How barely legal? The Exige S has a rear-view mirror -- for purposes of Department of Transportation approval -- but you can't see anything because the rear canopy is filled with the enormous intercooler.

Road cars are compromised. The steering is slower, more assisted and more self-centering. The springs and shocks are softer. The cabins are packed with heavy, noise-dampening insulation.

In the Exige S and the GT3, all that gets tossed like Imus Fan Club buttons. The Porsche has a stall-happy, dual-mass flywheel and a towering, leg-wearying pedal to engage it. Getting into the tiny, low-slung Lotus is like climbing into a desk drawer. Both cars have hair-trigger steering. A good sneeze can send you across three lanes of traffic.

These cars remind me of an O. Henry short story that was never written: A man, seeking revenge, gives his mortal enemy a gift of one of these cars -- free, no questions asked. The only condition: He has to pick it up in Baltimore and drive it home. On second thought, it's more like Stephen King.

But at the track? They're bliss, perfection, automotive Orgasmatrons.

The $60,815 (base price) Exige S -- the new supercharged version replacing the soft-on-power Exige -- is an elementary particle in sports-car physics: No power steering, no stability control and no adaptive damping to sooth the cat-o'-nine-tails sting of its suspension. The $106,860 GT3 -- a lightened and tightened version of the 997 with the naturally aspirated engine set to kill -- is more sophisticated: It has variable-rate power steering, traction control and adaptive damping. But what the Porsche giveth in terms of civility -- alcantara seats and optional DVD-based navigation, for instance -- it taketh away in protective overrides. Unlike standard 911s, the GT3 doesn't come with stability control; tease this rear-engine dragon's sliding, opposite-lock limits and you may find yourself going backward in a major hurry.

You could not ask for two unalike cars to be more alike. For example, both lunge -- and that's the only word for it -- to 60 mph in about 4 seconds. Both scream red-faced arias up to 8,500 rpm, and both reach peak torque at 5,500 rpm. Both use hand-stirred gear sets -- in fact, these are two of the quickest production cars in the world that still use a conventional six-speed manual gearbox (another is the Porsche Turbo). Both come shod with race tires (Yokohama ADVAN A048s for the Lotus, Michelin Pilot Sport Cups for the Porsche) that are stickier than a House subpoena. Both have adjustable suspensions: The Lotus has one-way adjustable Eibach/Bilstein coil-overs and rear anti-roll bar, while the GT3's whole geometry can be tuned (camber, toe, ride height and roll stiffness). Both have race-proven brakes: Brembos for the Lotus and, on our test GT3, Porsche's full-on land anchors, the optional ceramic composite brakes.

Oddly, both brands' American operations are based in Atlanta. How weird is that?

And both claw the air in search of track-holding downforce and radiator-cooling breezes with wings, splitters, intakes -- a dog's breakfast of scoops and aero-foils. The Exige S generates 100 pounds of downforce at 90 mph. The GT3's biplane rear wing is adjustable and includes a Gurney flap on the trailing edge of the deck lid. Top speed is a brisk 193 mph.

To paraphrase Bill Murray, what we have here are two heavily armed recreational vehicles.

A couple weeks ago, I took the Lotus Exige S to Willow Springs Raceway -- thank you, Los Angeles Shelby American Automobile Club -- and it was just phenomenal. Once I got there. I barely survived the 90-minute beating delivered by the Exige S's spine-zinging, concussive ride. Sweet suffering Jesuits!

Then I pulled onto the Streets of Willow circuit and it got all better.

Many words have been spilled trying to describe Lotus' distinctive handling, of which the Exige S is the best example. Low and wide-stanced, the car has its roll centers deep in the Earth. Being that it's a mid-engine car on a 90.5-inch wheelbase, with a 38/62 front/rear weight bias, you'd expect it to snappishly oversteer (translation: that it would fishtail abruptly). Instead, the Lotus' deeply neutral handling -- and the seamless transitions provided by the progressive-rate Eibach springs -- allows you to trail-brake like crazy, rotate the car and, as it points toward the apex, get right back on the gas. This car lives for slip angles. No car, anywhere, has such confidence-inspiring cornering poise.

The steering -- and the comically small steering wheel -- that seems so nervous on the road is perfect on the track: light, quick and laser accurate. The aluminum-cased gearbox that seems clunky and unrefined on the street now slips between ratios like a greasy knife. The pedals are close and easy to heel-and-toe.

The no-profile Yokohama gumball tires that beat your brains out on the street now seem like magic. It would have been tempting to load this car up with monster tires whose lateral grip would overwhelm the chassis; instead, Lotus matched the tires perfectly, and when this car is in its fervid, opposite-lock moments, it's as much fun as driving an old British sports car on bias plies.

Howling and hissing like a Harrier just inches from your head, the Toyota-built 1.8-liter engine is supercharged -- 30 hp more than the standard Elise -- and chipped so that 80 percent of maximum torque (165 pound-feet at 5,500 rpm) is available at just 2,000 rpm. Put the power down mid-corner and the Exige S digs like crazy (our test car had optional traction control, but it's almost completely transparent). Punchy, lively, free-revving, this twin-cammer has a cute trick: It provides a two-second overboost, temporarily raising the redline from 8,000 to 8,500 rpm. This came in handy at the end of Street's single longish strait heading up the hill to Turn 2.

Our test Exige S had a few domesticating features, including air conditioning and the optional Touring pack, which included electric windows (useful) and a stereo (useless). With all that, the car weighed about 2,100 pounds, I'd estimate.

The GT3 comes at the performance equation from another angle, starting life as a rather plush GT and simplifying. Gone are the back seats, the sound insulation in the headliner and about 100 other odds and ends. Added are a dry sump lube system and all manner of exotic engine internals to make the reciprocating parts lighter and faster. Redline is a ferocious 8,400 rpm (although it looks like 8,500 from the cockpit) and specific power is an astonishing 115.2 hp/liter. With variable induction geometry and stepless variable valve timing, the 3.6-liter just vomits howling gouts of German horsepower in every gear. I rather like that.

The beautifully balanced GT3, obviously, has higher absolute limits than the Exige S, more bite on turn-in and more lateral road holding from its huge 19-inch tires. If you put the adjustable suspension in Sport mode, the car gets very racy and non-elastic, which can provoke it to skip and trammel in corners over less-than-perfect pavement. Too much of that and the car's computer will revert to the more compliant damper settings. The steering is massively heavy but has superb feedback. The variable-ratio algorithm means that the farther off-center you turn, the more direct the steering response becomes, but the effect is so subtle I didn't detect it.

I don't love the pedal arrangement in the GT3. To heel-and-toe the accelerator, the brake pedal has to be pushed down pretty far, and with the ceramic brakes, that means gonzo, 10-tenths braking, which can take you out of your driving rhythm, not to mention hang you from the seat belts.

New for this year's GT3 is standard traction control. With its sky-high thresholds, the system allows lots of power-on oversteer and won't step in unless you well and truly spool the tires. The more adventurous can switch off traction control.

Unlike the hero-making Exige S, the GT3 is likely to leave you feeling slightly humbled. There's a lot of car here. Getting the most out of it would require many laps and a dozen sets of tires (at $1,500 a set). Still, it's one of the half-dozen greatest track cars ever to host a license plate.

Had enough yet? If not, Lotus offers the track-only, non-DOT Exige Cup, with an additional 37 hp ($86,190). Porsche offers the GT3 RS, a weight-shaved street-legal racer with a rear wing the size of a coffee table ($123,200). Prepare to have your face melted.

Changing VW Brake Parts

Maintaining and changing brakes on your own VW vehicle is not as hard as you may think. But, keep in mind that when you change your own brake pads, there are some other aspects that should be checked also to ensure that your brake pads are safe and dependable. If the brake pads or brake shoes are worn and need to be replaced, chances are other VW brake parts in the brake system may require attention too. The most obvious ones would be the brake rotors or drums and brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Both the front and rear brakes should be inspected.

A quality brake job should cover everything from the brake master cylinder where you add the brake fluid, to the calipers and wheel cylinders.

Changing the brakes include inspecting all the mechanical, hydraulic, and electrical components in both the front and rear brakes. If necessary, replace the front and rear brake pads. Then, inspect or replace brake rotors or disks.

Brake rotors require a clean, smooth, flat surface on the rotors. Otherwise your brake performance will suffer. A rough surface will accelerate pad wear. It will also increase the risk of noise. An uneven surface or variations in rotor thickness can cause vibrations, noise and annoying brake pedal pulsations. Brake drums that have grooves or any kind of damage should be replaced immediately. Sometimes, you cannot do all auto work by yourself. Your local auto parts store can help you turn the rotors for these discs to have extra life so you do not have to buy new.

The next thing to do is to check the level and condition of your brake fluid. Changing the fluid is recommended to get rid of moisture contamination. Always follow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

Changing the brake pads is the next step. Remember that there are books at your local auto parts store, on eBay, and at any bookstore that you can also buy. These will give you step by step instructions along with picture illustrations as to how to change and maintain brake pads.

First off you need to purchase break pads, which are available from any local auto parts store. You can also purchase the pads from a dealer but they run a lot more than the local auto parts store. There are many different brands of brake pads but what you have to put on my vehicle are the ones that are considered lifetime. These run a little more, but the cost covers itself in the long run. The next time you do a break job you take the lifetime ones back in and they exchange them free of charge.

Do not hurry up. Take your time in familiarizing yourself with the brakes on your car before you begin work. It is also a good idea to work on one side at a time in case you have trouble. In that way, you have one side to use as a reference. Remember that your front brakes provide most of the stopping power for your vehicle.
Changing the front brake pads require setting of your parking brake, and block the rear tires so your vehicle will not move. Loosen the lug nuts. Using a jack, raise your vehicle and place it securely on jack stands. Then, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

Now you can see the brake calipers holding the brake pads against the rotors. There are 2 pads in each wheel that squeeze the rotor. Unbolt the caliper mounting bolts and pull the caliper back from the rotor. Be careful not to bend or break the brake hose. Sometimes the caliper mounting bolts require you to use a Torx or Star bit instead of a normal socket set. These can also be purchased at your local auto parts store and an employee will help you to purchase the size that is just right for your VW vehicle. Plan ahead and make sure you have the right tools for the job to save you a trip back to the auto parts store.

After you remove the caliper, remove the front brake pad and leave the rear pad in place. Using a C-clamp, compress the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Make sure you remove the cap off the brake reservoir before you do this. This needs to be done so that when you put the new pads in the caliper, it will create a space to put the caliper back on.

Examine the break pads for unusual or uneven wear. These could be signs of a problem that need to be taken care of immediately.

While doing this, it is also a good time to examine the condition of the rotors. You will need to get the rotors turned or replaced if they have deep groves or if you have noticed that the car shudders when you hit the brakes.

Install the new pads in the caliper. Usually it is best to place the inner pad first, then the outer pad second. Before you install the pads back on to the caliper, make sure the piston is fully depressed. Once the pads are properly seated in the caliper, put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it firmly in place.

If everything is correct, then you can put the wheel back on, hand tighten the lug nuts, and lower the car to the ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts in a start pattern so that they are even.

The last thing to do in doing a brake job is to test the brakes. Carefully check your brakes and brake fluid levels before entering traffic. Sometimes some air can get into the brake lines when you change the brake pads. If this happens, you will need to bleed the brakes before you try to move the car again.

VW car care tips for spring season

While it is true that Volkswagen is one of the makers of quality cars and car parts, a VW car owner must still have with him VW repair manuals just to assure he will not get lost in doing the car repairs by himself.

Nonetheless, the cliché “Prevention is better than cure” is also true to automobiles especially during spring season. It is important to know how to take care of your VW car on a spring season. This is to prevent your car against any undesirable severe car defect. After all, you do not want to spoil your car investment, right?

Summer driving conditions are tough on motorists and vehicles; and motorists can be safer if they observe and practice hot-weather car care tips.

The following things must be kept in mind:

Replace your winter tires with spring tires. But say you do not have winter tires, it is still equally important to have all season tires rotated. Driving in the winter weather can be hard on tires due to huge bulk of snow. Rotating tires regularly extends their life. Eventually, these will give you better braking and handling. When you are driving on wet roads that are typical during spring, better braking and handling is especially important.

Check your wiper blades. Your wipers work hard all winter removing away dirt and debris that stuck on your windshield. It is also a good idea to replace them in the spring to be prepared for rain showers.

To avoid erosion and rusting, cleaning the underbody must be done. In addition to washing the exterior, car owners have to be sure to spray the underbody and underneath the rear and front bumpers to rinse away any salt build-up. It is best advised to use a high-pressure sprayer or garden hose for high quality results.

Vacuums are not only used in house cleaning. These are also great cleaners of car interiors. It is also advised to throw away any unwanted garbage that was left under your seats over the winter. And since the country is now experiencing the spring season, now is the time to store your winter car mats in the garage.

Apply a something to protect the vinyl surfaces of your car including the dashboard, seats and the steering wheel. These are susceptible to cracking, sun damage and fading. A protectant must be applied at the beginning of the season and touch it up regularly.

Change the oil of the car engine. Spring season is not the time for thinner oil like 5W30. Return to 10W30 for warmer weather. However, just make sure you stick to the manufacturer’s recommended oil type for your car to avoid inconveniences an engine damages.

To make sure all fluids are topped up, check them all. During winter season, fluids are easily depleted as your engine works harder in the colder weather. Make sure to double-check all the car’s fluids regularly.

Regardless of what kind of weather the atmosphere has, always check the brakes. One of the warning signs of a damaged brake system is brake noise, including excessive grinding, squealing, screeching or chatter.

Since it is a hot season, regularly wash your car. All vehicles regardless of the finish (clear coat, acrylic, enamel, etc.) require regular washing throughout the year to preserve the car’s exterior. And, for the preservation of the shine and protection of the surface of the vehicle, wax your vehicle once it has dried completely.Keep cars washed and waxed to help prevent rust and paint damage.

Those mentioned tips are simple yet you are assured of those less costly repairs or none at all.

Changing the Fuel Filter

A vehicles fuel filter is used to keep the fuel that is used in the fuel injection system clean to avoid plugging fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. The fuel filter should be changed between 25,000 and 35,000 miles depending on driving conditions. First locate and identify the fuel filter, all vehicles are different so you might have to look around for it. Some are under the hood and others are under the car or truck like the one used in this example.

If you are unsure were your fuel filter is located then you can buy an online schematic at Mitchell1 Online. (Wear protective gloves and eyewear when replacing).

Locate and replace the fuel filter
Remove the fuel filter connection

Remove fuel filter connections from fuel lines. A small amount of fuel will leak out when connections are removed. Next remove the fuel filter mounting bracket bolt and remove filter.

Install fuel filter mount

Remove fuel filter mount from old fuel filter and install it on the new fuel filter. Make sure that the direction arrow is pointing in the direction of the engine. (forward in most cases)

Install new fuel filter

After the fuel filter mount is installed reinstall fuel filter. Make sure the sealing "O" rings are in place, in good condition and free from debris. Remount filter and reconnect. Start vehicle to check for leaks